Updated August, 2010

Home Page


Odds & Ends


Fighting the

for you to

Fishing Page





   Planner Boards

Ice Fishing


   Ice Fishing Crappie
   & Bluegills!

   Ice Fishing Perch!

   Ice Fishing Walleye!

   Ice Fishing JIGS, >>>
   "How To" directions!

   Ice Fishing Basics

Gill Netting



   The Way It Is...

   What to do

Field Test

   Sorel Boots

   About the Author

   Products Page

Links to some friends
of Outdoors

Updated 2012

Special Note for 2012 Update. I now have made a number of ice fishing audio Cds for those of us who don't like to read books to learn from. Learn while driving to work or at home – wherever you wish! These are NOT fancy, and are in the first person, like I as your fishin' bud was sitting with you, looking you right in the eye as I give you the information you need and want to enable you to fish and excell at it. I'm adding to the title/subject list all the time – so email me for a list of the topics available and pricing – they are not yet listed on my website.

"The HOW TO"!

(There's a lot here - so large print for easy reading'!)

By John A. Vance, Environmental Eng. Tech.,
& Outdoor Writer (member Outdoor Writers of Canada) and 40 years as a 'pro' guide: Emeritus! All of the information here is copyrighted by John A. Vance, and may only be reproduced in any means with his express written permission! If you are a club, write me for permission to use this in your club newsletters - for free, and with the mention of my name and www!


( Author's note: I hope you learn a lot from this write up on how to fish these specific jigs - and others ( in most cases the principle's the same) - but if I've 'wet your whistle' for more information, or if you need further clarification, please consider purchasing the books I've written on the subject that is most closely related to your fish or needs. In most cases you'll find the info you need in my books. My writing style in the books closely resembles my writing style here. I invite purchasers of my books to contact me with any special needs they may have to clear up whatever area they don't seem to understand - will the author's of any of the other 'outdoor' books you have do the same? This is one of the reasons I am regarded as a 'working' outdoor writer - I'm of, and still belong to the 'grassroots' folk who purchase and support me - with humble appreciation - and with MY thanks - John A. Vance)

Like everyone else, I was ( and still am, I suppose) looking for the 'perfect' ice fishing jig - have I found it? - NOPE!!! for sure not!  I don't think there is a perfect fishing lure of any kind, for that matter. 
But here are some mighty fine ice fishing jigs which have proven downright excellent and constant for me over the years - ones that I've adopted and HAND PAINT - and these jigs are AMERICAN MADE - with AMERICAN components, except for the actual hook which are in some cases MUSTAD hooks,  all the other hooks used are AMERICAN MADE  EAGLE CLAW hooks - but in either case - your assurance of  quality - ALL THE WAY. I've found it's a heck of a lot cheaper overall to have a very few jigs that work - than a tackle box full of one's that work only moderately well!

Usually, the actual cost of  the ice jigs you'll use for ice fishing, in the VAST MAJORITY OF CASES, will be the LEAST EXPENSIVE item, relative to the OVERALL of the gear you use - and have - for ice fishing. Even the gas you use to get to your ice fishing 'hot spot' will likely cost you more than a package of these decent high quality ice jigs! So, if you can afford it, spend a few more pennies on 'em and go with the best. You'll catch more fish overall and not have the grief of being driven nuts trying to figure out 'which lure/jig' you should use - end the second guessing of yourselves, fella's! And let me also tell you right up front - I'm here for you if you need further dialogue/discussion about anything you read here - or my product line. It's what I do, now I'm semi retired - and I enjoy every second of 'chatting' with you guys. Just know I'm here for you throughout this whole process.

If you're an ardent ice fisher over the age of eighteen (18) and can't afford to purchase my ice jigs - write me personally at environm@execulink.com and perhaps I can help! I want all fellow ardent ice fishers to be able to use my jigs, and I enjoy young folk - the life-blood of ice fishers everywhere!

( If/when writing for more info, etc., please use a specific related title in the 'subject' area of the e-mail - this will help me quickly determine that your message is not spam - which I get hundreds of daily - this will make sure I don't delete your message without opening it! - John A. Vance)

With the three models here, THE TICK JIG; THE TEETER TOTTER JIG and THE SUNFISH JIG -AND IN THE simple but very effective 'GLOW on BLACK COLORS - which admittedly don't look like much - ARE THE BEST ICE FISHING LURES I'VE USED DURING MY 40 + YEAR ICE FISHING and FISHING CAREER - BAR NONE! The 'glow on black' which I've personally developed is more of a concept than an actual color combination. As well, it's not just simply 'glow on black', but the proper combination of, and sizing properties of each of the individual three components/concepts used which I alone came up with using my lifetime's savvy, education - and thousands of trips fishing and thousands upon thousands of R&D hours and DOLLARS! And not one cent came directly or even indirectly from the government or any big business!

As I write this during the process of updating my web site, I need to tell you that I have further developed a number of specialty products such as the 'Feeding Minnow Flash'  concept for ice fishing - which is better than chum. This product is also at my product page. I have also written a book on this and the actual 'flash attractors' for those who wish to dare go to a place far beyond where most ice fishers ever will - these are for the truly ardent folk that wish to simply 'rule' out on the ice - and of course, for 'pro' ice fishers who have to produce fish consistently for their clientele. They are not particularly expensive, but you need to learn the nuts/bolts of the whole process - and devote some time to learning and understanding - at a very in-depth level. I urge you to, if you are so inclined, to come here to my area during your summer holidays to learn these techniques - you'll be glad you did. I can arrange for cost sharing - so you can achieve a higher level of excellence being able to 'one-on-one' with me due to less people.  You'll learn whilst on holidays - and have some fun - and be able to ready yourself for the winter!
Further on here, I'll also discuss some other 'cutting edge' items that you'll simply wanna know about if your ardent or a 'pro'! 
Read on, my friends!

TICK JIGS - This was the first jig that I worked on and developed - or more correctly - the actual colors and 'methodology' mentioned here - and now what I now call 'Glow on Black' in both of my "Ice Fishing Basics" and 'Just Crappie' books ( and in several of my other books and numerous 'outdoors' columns and audio Cds as well). Indeed, OVER TEN YEARS( now over twenty two years of R&R as I update this page in 2012!) OF RESEARCH went into this excellent color combination and concept - which uses both science and proven field experience in the development - AND IS WHY THEY WORK SO WELL! I used all of my savvy as a 'pro' fisher, and my education as an Environmental Engineering Technician to come up with this fish-deadly combo - I didn't just try colors until I hit a productive array - as many tackle manufacturers do - and which are often primarily aimed at 'sale-ability' rather than time tested 'fish catch ability'. No doubt you've seen tackle shop walls with such a fantastic ( and costly) assortment of 'nice looking' ice fishing jigs - designed and painted up and 'look good'  - and sell - to you as the fisherman! The ticks, teeter totters and sunfish jigs found here on my ( and ONLY ON MY PAGE) may not look like much to us fisher folk - but the bottom line is - THEY CATCH FISH - BIG TIME - CONSISTENTLY! 

order 'em!

Tick jigs! 'Glow on Black', a deadly combo!

(Incidentally, I also now offer the 'Glow On Black' concept on a number of my other jigs, too - and  have also included some other cutting edge products. Be sure to surf out my product section - and do contact me for more discussion on any info or products you may 'wonder about' - it's what I do in my semi retirement)

I'll detail each of these jigs now, and give you the basic fishing information for each that you need to catch a variety of fish. Yes - the 'in a nutshell' directions are on the package of each of these jigs - but if you are ardent, you'll be wanting  more information on using them - here it is ... and oh yes - EVEN MORE fishing detail can be had in my Ice Fishing Basic and Just Crappie books as well - which gives you all of  the 'BIG PICTURE' needed for consistency at catching fish in almost any North American fresh water you will be fishing! 

Now in 2012 I've added a number of audio Cds for both open water and ice fishing. These are great for the guys who don't like reading books, and are a superb way to make yourself more efficient, especially you fishers who commute to work and can listen to them during your drive! These too are unique, not fancy – just pure knowledge and inexpensive...contact me for more details.

As well, I will put on specail workshops for you if you wish to come to my area for your summer holidays. Get together with some like-minded people such as either your family of fishin' buds and come up for a custom workshop on the topic and duration of YOUR choice – when convenient for you! We have a squaky-clean campground three minutes from where I live, and a mom/pop motel for those who don't like camping. The campground has excellent shower facilities and can accomodate Rvs, tenting and have small cabins available ( formerly a KOA) . This camoground is situated on the Serpent River and access onto the North Channel of Georgian Bay! We have numerous ATV trails, too, as well as hundreds of fishable inland lakes with many fish species available. Give me a call for pricing and details – it's a great way to learn, have a 'northern experience' on your holidays and do some learning on a one-on-one basis too!
TICK JIGS ( general descriptions) - come in three sizes, the smallest is on a size ten gold hook and weighs 1/64th ozThe medium -( my overall favorite tick jig for crappie, 'gills, perch and trout) is on a size 8 gold hook and weighs in at 1/32nd oz ( for really deep water fishing you may wish to use added weight -  egg sinkers( sometimes also called slip sinkers and worm caps, etc.) will do - or my weighted sliders - and which are what I use and prefer). Lastly the largest Tick Jig on a larger gold size 6 hook - also weighing in at 1/32nd oz.( Update for 2012 - they now also come in size 4 , gold hook - and are superb for walleye under ice - and pike) The larger hook not only accommodates larger fish, generally than the smaller - but preferable if are you in walleye or pike or lake trout water. Additionally, many of the fishers that specialize on perch often pinch the barb of the hook for easy and quick hook-out - enabling them to get it back into the water as quickly as possible during a hot bite! 
I PREFER the smallest size 10 tick for 'gill and pumpkinseed fishing best, and use it on occasion if the crappie have done their finicky 'thing' and have gone neutral or even worse, negative. True though, is the fact that I prefer to use a jig with a horizontal position for neutral or negative crappie. I prefer to use four lb test line most of the time for either ice fishing or open water, and have taken trout ( steelhead) in streams/rivers with this light line and these small ice jigs - and many of these fish weighing upwards of seven lbs - you'll need a reel with a good drag in such cases, for sure!) But this small( sized) jig isn't meant for large fish really, and it is a tough go for deep water unless you use extra weight. Those fishers using two lb test just simply love these tiny jigs!  When I first made this web site we didn't have the lines we have now. I simply love the Power Pro Ice fishing lines – which are a braided wire line. I use the UNI knot and tie on a flurocarbon leader – when used with these jigs is simply deadly!

Teeter Totter Jigs!  order 'em!

For CRAPPIE - 'slabs'  - and huge 'gills,  small 'farm pond' brown trout and most open water fishing I PREFER  the medium size eight tick jig again, running four lb line. I've taken some large steelhead on these, as well as lots of smallmouth, - and while largemouths are out of season here in my area during ice fishin' season - I 've released literally thousands of them over the years too! This is my favored size tick jig, overall, and walleye, trout, perch, crappie of all sizes and humungus 'gills have all fallen to  this tick. 

My fishin' buds that really pound on the perch FAVOR the LARGER tick jig, and in deep water use as little extra weight as possible so as not to destroy the tick jig's sensitive but wild darting action, nor the delicate bites when perch are neutral or negative. The large tick jig weighs the same as the previous medium size tick, but the large tick comes on a gold size 6 hook which allows for bending down of the barb easily. The larger hook also accommodates a larger piece of live bait or  small tube jig for those that need it. If bending down the barb be sure to keep constant 'up' pressure/movement on perch when bringin' them in so they don't 'flip off' PREMATURELY in the water. This 'easy' flip-off is desired once out on the ice though, allowing anglers to get their rig back into the water and down into 'the kill zone' more quickly - offering more fish per trip - and other 'reasons' that only the most productive anglers seem to know and understand. 

But there's MORE -ALL OF these jigs  are also being used and proving awesome on OPEN WATER TOO + STREAM FISHING FOR TROUT - what a bonus!

With all of the jigs found here - you can catch 'major fish' relatively inexpensively - when compared to the costly 'other' lures these  simple ice jigs can replace. In fact, with an assortment of the jigs found here you can easily catch as many, and often MANY MORE crappie, perch, 'gills, smallmouth bass, walleye and trout than on your whole expensive tackle box full of tackle that you likely have now - and they'll all fit easily ( even with a few extra weights or  slip sinkers) in a small pill bottle! Don't get me wrong here - I'm not suggesting that you get rid of, nor that you don't use the tackle you already have - just that you can have excellent fishing results using these small jigs - rather than spend big bucks filling your tackle box with other much more costly lures! Lets face it though, for open water these jigs just wouldn't be a good alternative for trolling or for much drift fishing - albeit they do work well for slow drift fishing.

Not only that - these "Glow on Black" TICK, TEETER TOTTER and SUNFISH jigs ( 'Glow on Black) ARE NOT sold by ANY of the big chain stores! 

Sunfish jigs!  order 'em!

GENERAL FISHING TECHNIQUES for all of these jigs is much the same for any given fish species - but be sure to pay attention to the HORIZONTAL PRESENTATION that the teeter totter and sunfish jigs use - and why - it'll give you more consistency and put way more fish in the box for ya! ( again - if you are an ardent fisher - you'd be wise to get my books on the fish you're after). In all cases your fishing success and time to hunt-out fish will be dramatically improved with an ice fishing fish finder such as a Vexilar!  Usually, with each order of ice jigs, I also send along a free sample of Line/Depth markers - and directions - and these can be put to excellent use by those without a fish-finder, especially - and all the better if you do!
In all cases of these jigs, I personally use four lb test green line, and 'tie on' using the improved clinch knot, and wet the knot with my tongue just as I'm tightening up the knot! If you are using wire line you  WILL need to  use a fluorocarbon leader of about a foot long ( as a minimum). After catching a dozen or so fish( when using mono line), or just one large fish, especially if it's a walleye or pike or trout, I'll cut off the jig and about two feet of line and re-tie it back on again. I ALWAYS SHARPEN THE JIGS BEFORE I GO FISHING ( EVEN BRAND NEW JIGS) - AND AGAIN OFTEN WHILE FISHING -  WITH A HOOK HONE - NEEDLE SHARP HOOKS FOR ME, PLEASE!
Best bet crappie fishing techniques using tick, teeter totter and sunfish jigs- once I've found the fish, and know the best 'depth' to be at, I often mark the depth/place on my line with a chartreuse bobber stop. Even when I'm using a Vexilar depth/fish finder  I like the thread bobber stop at the top of the water so I can quickly and easily return to the exact 'kill zone' as quickly as possible. 
For live bait I like to use a wax worm or other small baits, often free for the taking, or perhaps a mousy( an insect grub, not an actual mouse). Occasionally, especially if the fish are neutral or negative, the wax worm or small tag of crawler or minnow may be a bit large for the smallest tick, sunfish or teeter totter jigs. Generally, most of the time, the wax worm, tag (quarter to half inch ONLY) of crawler or VERY SMALL minnow are simply great on both the size eight and six tick, teeter totter and sunfish jigs. 
Drop your bait down to the desired depth the fish are in - and especially for crappie - keep the offering MOVING SLIGHTLY - I like to move it from side to side in the hole, or so the line is barely traveling around the diameter of the hole, but SLOWLY and subtly! I'd guess that it would take a couple of minutes for me to encircle the whole periphery of the hole - that's slow! Once in a while I'll move it up a foot or two, then allow it to drop again - VERY SLOWLY back down to the desired depth.

Thrum or shimmer the lure if you figure the fish are neutral or negative, ( this process is what a famous 'brand name' fisher calls 'pounding') and if possible ( especially when fish are neutral or negative) - if you have 'em -   use or change to a teeter totter or sunfish jig which have a horizontal presentation, baited with your favored live bait. Incidentally, especially for ice fishing, you  can use a very small piece of twister or tube tail - BUT by far and away I prefer live bait as the tag on.  I Repeat: If using the twister/tube tail for a bit of added color/action - use ONLY a small PIECE.

BE SURE to focus INTENTLY on your line very often crappie bite in an upward motion and your line may go slack - immediately GENTLY set the hook - and FISH ON! If using a small slip bobber or peg style bobber be watchful for it to either come up and lie on it's side when crappie happen to be what you're after or are in the area. 

If using a bobber, for a bit of action, if you can't as easily thrum or shimmer your jig( say a second line), instead, simply and very subtly, tap the top of the bobber - but don't over-do! This will put a small amount of action in the jig below - and remember - what looks like a little to you where you are - will be a LOT on the actual jig - so again - don't over-do the tapping, shimmering or thrumming actions for crappie!  Too, after thrumming, shimmering or tapping, I'll often let the rig sit motionless for a minute or so, then slowly raise it up a foot or so, then slowly drop back down - this seems to entice neutral or negative fish. Most often, if the fish aren't neutral or negative and the bite is hot - you won't need to go to these extremes - only when the going is tough and slow!
In my latest ice fishing book called "Northern Ontario Ice Fishing" I describe how to make an effective wind powered 'jigger' which give superb action to any presentation. Look for it at the product section of this website.

Bluegill and pumpkinseed fishing techniques using tick, teeter totter and sunfish jigs. While generally, fishing techniques are similar as for crappie - most assuredly they are not at all the same.
But be ready - when using these jigs and techniques - you'll take nearly ALL species of fish - they're that effective! 
Sometimes 'gills will be deep, and you may, especially if using smaller jigs, need extra weight to get your jig and live bait offering down directly and much more quickly. The key to success, though, in this extra weight event, is to NOT USE MORE than you need to efficiently get the jig and bait down quickly to the depth you wish to fish at - TOO MUCH WEIGHT AND IT'LL DEADEN your feel of the lure and potential bite - most PAN FISH - crappie, 'gills 'n' perch can bite particularly light - until now - use my slider weights - they'll NOT cause that dead zone as will split shot.
When fishing 'gills I find that I let my bait sit motionless MUCH MORESO than when crappie fishing, but when I do move the bait I use much the same technique as when fishing crappie ( see above). Too, I'll move the jig on the up/down motions a bit more quickly than when fishin' crappie, and on a much greater distance of 'stroke' . Very often 'gills - even mammoth gills - will be 'pecking' at the bait and reluctant to take it. When this happens it may be because there are a lot of smaller fish there, or the 'gills may simply be finicky, neutral or negative. If you wish to take more fish when this happens - switch  immediately to a smaller jig or bait, or combination of these. Be sure to use a horizontal presentation jig if they are in this neutral or negative bite mode. Use a SMALL piece of LIVE bait on this small jig and your success should improve. If you are plagued with small fish - do the reverse - go with a larger similar jig and a bit bigger piece of live bait. AND BE SURE YOUR HOOKS ARE PAST NEEDLE SHARP!
'Gills, like crappie, may be biting 'up' and your line may simply go dead, and I've even seen the line simply stop moving and go limp, not moving at all. When this happens I usually quickly, but gently, snub up the line and GENTLY set the hook, all in one motion.
When they are simply nibbling/pecking, so to speak, but never seemingly bite hard enough for you to connect solidly - and I assure you, you'll know what I mean when when this happens, as mentioned above, offer smaller bait sizes and horizontal jigs. But there's sometimes even  more needed to dupe them during such frustrating times. BE SURE to focus intently on the line when this happens - with a steely stare - and gently - like using that movement used above on the crappie, but slightly faster, move that line around the hole, and up and down about six inches to a foot ( only) so that the jig is following but never allowing any slack.  BE READY, and in this fashion you'll feel 'em when they barely mouth the bait - and when they do so - set that hook QUICKLY with a GENTLE SNAP.I assure you, you'll have to have your wits about you for this level of intense fishing -enjoy and - fish on!

Walleye, Pike and Trout fishing using ticks, teeter totters and sunfish jigs. for the most part these jigs are a bit small for consistent fishing of most of these larger fish, but you will catch them on 'em, and they work well, and there will be times when you get into these fish unexpectedly - and well - you might as well make the most of it!  Now, as I update this page August, 2010, I'm glad to be able to tell you that larger sizes of most of these jigs are available for these larger fish. I also have special coloring for them for these fish - when taken in shallow water. For any under ice fishing in water that's deeper than say, eight feet, best use my 'Glow On Black' colors - they prove best!
I've put all of these larger fish in the same category because they all like lots of action as a rule (as compared to crappie and 'gills) - and all are usually( not walleye, though) hard biters. But trout, especially speckled trout - like a smaller piece of bait. For speckled trout I like either a maggot or wax worm or mousy, and for all the rest of the trouts, a nice lively ( but small if possible, no longer than two inchers, except in the case of hard water lakers which'll go for three inchers, with relish) minnow! In most cases I'll hook the minnow just under and behind the dorsal fin. Go to the desired depth - and if using a small jig you will likely need extra weight of a slider weight or egg sinker if you need lots of weight. KEEP THAT BAIT MOVING at least fifty percent of the time, allowing it to sit motionless periodically. Use long upward jig sweeps of about four foot strokes( but SLOWER) for walleye, ( more action here, please) pike and large trout, and only about a foot and a half stroke duration for speckled trout. If you're an ardent sort, then I also now carry specialized ice rattles to fasten onto the line at or just above the jig - this is especially good for fish that are sparse or scattered and you need extra 'ointment' to draw them in to you. Most of the time such a stroke will take me three or four seconds to accomplish before allowing it to settle back down to the desired depth. While this is what I regard as 'fast' for ice fishing - it's quite slow as compared to what one would use for summer and open water fishing.

If your minnows are lively you should see your line being moved around the hole as the minnow is swimming around with it easily, especially in the case of the larger three to four inch minnows you should be using for pike and walleye. Too, to add extra color and flutter to your offering, especially for all of these larger fish, tag on the thin tail piece of a twister tail or tube tail - just half inch to an inch piece only - not too much, and just the thin wiggly part!  I have also developed some mighty amazing dropper spoons and action oriented spoons which are extremely light - so as NOT to give appreciable extra weight to the presentation. They WILL ADD fish to your catch'
For even more attraction, I now have a kit available so that you can make an inexpensive 'shit disturber' that stirs up the gunk effectively, that's on the bottom. I have seen this START a FEEDING FRENZY amongst fish that were neutral/negative before using it.

If have trouble with these jigs ripping out of the fish's mouth, try tying on a second stinger hook, and leave it baitless. Too, be sure to set the drag on your reel a bit lighter.

WHEN ICE FISHING: IF GOING IS TOUGH - FOR ANY FISH SPECIES - BE SURE TO VARY YOUR PRESENTATION AT EACH LOCATION/HOLE and be sure to try various depths also - then - move on if no fish are hitting or trying but missing your offering! 

AH!!! PERCH! - one of the mildest flavored - and sought after fish by ice anglers! Perch are indeed a schooling fish, and once the school is in your vicinity - the bite is on! Long time perch fishers know that you must get that bait back into the water as quickly as possible when the perch are hitting, and the larger size six ( and now a size 4 is available) tick jig allows you to do this by slightly pinching the barb. Once pinched, when the flopping fish is up and out of your hole, you simply move it away from the hole so it can't flop back into the water and be gone, then you let the line go slack and the perch'll flip and most of the time dislodge the hook itself! If this doesn't happen then you simply and quickly unhook the fish - no messing or fiddling or twisting around with the hook. BUT THERE IS A MAJOR TRADE-OFF! Because the barb is pinched down you'll lose more fish during the fight - most fishers that use this method of fishing horse the fish up and out of the hole as quickly as possible so that the line won't go slack - if the line goes slack during the plating of the fish - it'll flip off - and be gone! It takes a while to master this technique. 
With the larger teeter totter and sunfish jigs you may not need extra weight to get them down into deep water fast, but if on ANY of these jigs, including tick jigs, you can either use split shot or I sell very small slider weights  that are perfect to give just a bit more weight without impairing the action of the 'given' jig you are using, not dull the often light sensation of 'the bite'! 
In most water, except perhaps incredibly deep water, or water that is badly, and sadly losing it's oxygen content, often late winter, perch are primarily a very near bottom feeder. The old ice fishing concept of 'go to bottom, and up a foot' works well as a rule of thumb for perch fishers! If you don't have a fish finder or depth finder, be sure to use a bobber stop ( this technique is mentioned at length above in this article) to help you quickly and accurately reach the 'kill zone' - it'll vastly improve your catch overall! 
Perch are 'generally' fairly aggressive biters as compared to crappie or 'gillsand are perfect for beginner ice fishers to start on and the bonus - some of the finest most pristine flavored fish that God has created! Whichever type of jig you use, tick, teeter totter, or sunfish jigs - they all work well - use a piece of live bait on it as well - and ONLY A SMALL PIECE. I prefer to use a wax worm or maggot or mousy best, and use a minnow or perch eye only for specific reasons. If using a minnow for perch, don't use a minnow longer than about 2 inches if you can, three being what I regard as 'past' max for most water and perch. AND MAKE IT A LIVE MINNOW! If using maggots, wax worms or mousy - a live bait that doesn't provide its own action - as a live minnow does - if the bite isn't happening, jig the presentation lightly. By lightly I mean thrumming gently as to make the bait quiver/shimmer, and if you wish to use an up/down stroke, make it a short foot or two up/down distance as a max - unless in very deep water at which time a four foot stroke is fine. This stroke shouldn't be to aggressive though, and the time interval to complete the whole up and back down motion should take about two to three seconds - then let it sit motionless again, then thrum lightly again, repeating this until interested fish again start working the bait. Most of the time when the bite is fierce, as it sure can be perch fishin - just get that bait back into and down to the kill zone asap! 
If you aren't catching anything - drill more holes and hunt them out! Perch are quite nomadic and move around a lot - I may drill upwards of fifty holes before finding them - and once I do - I stick with them. On days when fishin is tough - definitely go to a smaller lure and piece of bait, and a jig with a horizontal presentation will in most cases prove best of all jigs in such circumstances. Too, if the going is tough - change jigging technique - use  aggressive jigging - BUT ALWAYS ALLOW THE JIG/BAIT TO SIT MOTIONLESS for a while after such jigging - perch won't usually chase an aggressively jigged lure much, as a rule of thumb! 
I've also found that if fishing very deep water for jumbo perch - say in water fifty feet and deeper, it's BEST to use a light pound test braid such as spider wire - with at least a fluorocarbon leader a foot long and an adequate relatively heavy weigh such as a slip sinker. In water this deep a quarter ounce weight may be needed to get it down to the fish, quicker. I will use an ice rattle for this deep work - and a shit disturber before actually jigging. I will use a Glow On Black jig with a piece of live bait or small minnow - which can be dead. Fish this deep will usually hit anything they can find. I will use a wind jigger and a dropper spoon when hunting these fish out - it helps narrow the field a bit. Once you find 'em, you must stay on 'em or they'll leave. These jumbo perch can often be a foot long - or over!

FISH - ON!! - John A. Vance, Environmental Eng. Tech., & Outdoor Writer (member Outdoor Writers of Canada) and 'Pro' guide emeritus!
DO contact me with any questions about what you've read here - or about ANY of my specialized product line. I'm here for you - now I'm semi retired! I want YOU to succeed!

CLICK HERE TO PURCHASE MY BOOKS, TICKS, TEETER TOTTERS AND SUNFISH JIGS! - with my thanks for putting bread on my table.  AMEN.


Author: John A. Vance
Copyright © 1998 John A. Vance. . . 

Back To Top 
Of  Page